[Tech] How I’m Choosing the Gearing for My Future Adventure Gravel Bike

An Open Adventurer’s breakdown of gearing options for long-distance gravel travel
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shimano chainrings and cassettes and a blurry gravel bike in the background

Choosing the right gravel bike groupset isn’t just about performance — it’s about making the bike match your riding reality. For those of us planning longer tours or mixed-terrain travel, the groupset needs to do more than shift smoothly. It has to be reliable, easy to service in the field, and flexible enough to handle steep climbs, heavy loads, and fast sections of open road. That’s where the real decisions begin: mechanical or electronic? 1x or 2x? Low gearing or top speed?

Mechanical or Electronic Shifting?

Electronic shifting is known to be fast, precise, and reliable.. With battery runtimes of 60 hours and longer, extended bikepacking tours through the wilderness should be possible — in theory. So let’s weigh the pros and cons.

Mechanical Shifting

Pros

  • Field Serviceable: Cables, housing, and derailleurs can be repaired or replaced with basic tools—even in remote places.
  • No Batteries: Nothing to charge, no risk of electronic failure due to power loss.
  • Lower Cost: Generally cheaper upfront and easier to maintain long-term.
  • Proven in Harsh Conditions: More forgiving in mud, sand, rain, or cold environments.

Cons

  • Cable Stretch / Wear: Needs periodic adjustment, especially on long trips.
  • More Susceptible to Contamination: Dirt or water in the housing can degrade performance.
  • Less Precise Over Time: Can feel "mushy" or inconsistent without regular tuning.

Electronic Shifting

Pros

  • Crisp, Consistent Shifting: Always precise—no cable stretch or friction to worry about.
  • Programmable and Customizable: Multi-shift, synchronized front/rear shifting, and shift-speed options.
  • Minimal Maintenance: Once set up, it rarely needs tuning.
  • Clean Aesthetic: Fewer cables.

Cons

  • Battery Dependency: If your derailleur battery dies mid-tour in the Andes… you're walking or hitchhiking.
  • Harder to Repair in the Field: Requires proprietary tools, diagnostics, and parts.
  • More Expensive: Costly to buy, and expensive to replace if damaged.
  • Cold Weather Risk: Battery performance can degrade in freezing temps.

Adventure/Travel Verdict

  • Self-supported, remote expeditions > Mechanical
  • Multi-week gravel touring across continents > Mechanical preferred
  • Weekend bikepacking with access to support > Either
  • Performance-oriented, supported races or travel > Electronic can be worth it

My choice

This was a closer call than you might think. But field-serviceability and energy management are key when traveling off-grid. Even with today’s impressive battery life, it’s still one more thing to worry about. When you’re alone and almost out of power, where do you spend your last milliampère — navigation, phone, or shifting? I’m choosing mechanical shifting.

1x12 vs 2x12: What Works best for Long-Distance Gravel

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shimano groupsets

There’s been a strong trend toward 1x drivetrains in gravel and cyclocross bikes. But is 1x also the best choice for adventure and touring gravel bikes?

1x Drivetrain (Single Front Chainring)

Pros

  • Simplicity: One shifter, fewer moving parts, and less chance of mechanical failure—a big win for remote travel.
  • Less Maintenance: No front derailleur means fewer adjustments, fewer cables, and cleaner lines—especially in mud or sand.
  • Weight Savings: Slightly lighter due to missing front derailleur, extra chainring, and cable.
  • Intuitive: especially helpful for newer riders or in high-stress situations like trail navigation or fatigue.

Cons

  • Limited Gear Range: You often trade either low-end climbing gears or high-speed gears depending on cassette choice.
  • Bigger Jumps Between Gears: Wider-range cassettes (e.g., 11-50t) result in larger gaps between gears—less ideal for cadence-sensitive riders.
  • More Chain Wear: Cross-chaining is more common, especially in extreme ends of the cassette.

2x Drivetrain (Double Front Chainring)

Pros

  • Wider Gear Range: Ideal for long-distance touring where you need both low climbing gears and fast flatland cruising.
  • Smaller Steps Between Gears: More precise cadence control—useful for hilly, variable terrain.
  • Better Gear Ratios: Easier to fine-tune a comfortable gear for any terrain.

Cons

  • More Complex: Two shifters, more cables, and a front derailleur—more can go wrong.
  • Heavier: Slightly more components add weight.
  • More Maintenance: Front derailleur setup and adjustment can be tricky in the field.

Travel & Adventure Context

Use Case Best OptionNotes
Ultralight bikepacking1xMinimal parts, less to break
Extended global touring2xBetter range for loaded climbs & flat roads
Mixed terrain weekenders1x or 2xDepends on terrain & riding style
Mountain-heavy travel2x (or wide-range 1x)Gear range is critical

My choice

I’m a cadence-sensitive rider and often carry luggage. I can't imagine being happy with only 12 gears. I’m also used to front derailleurs — my old road bike has a 3x9 setup. I’ll go with 2x12.

Finding the Balance: Low Gears vs High Speed

The Tradeoff

You need climbing capabilities for:

  • Steep climbs (especially off-road)
  • Carrying bikepacking gear or panniers
  • Sustained mountain terrain
  • Strong headwinds

You need top speed for:

  • Flat, open terrain
  • Tarmac transitions
  • Long-distance speed efficiency

In the real world, you’ll face mixed terrain, so a tradeoff is necessary. Most bikepackers prioritize climbing gears to avoid excessive “hike-a-bike” moments, which usually means sacrificing some top-end speed.

But using the same setup for a tent-based adventure in Corsica and a hotel-based family trip in the Netherlands feels less than ideal. So, is there a solution?

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Garmin device showing climb gradient on a bicycle handlebar
'Gravel Col de Marcheruz' on a heavy bike with a Flatland Speed Setup. Never again.

A Modular Gearing Setup for Travel

Swapping your crankset and cassette takes about 30 minutes. And if you’re doing that, why not clean everything and install a new chain? Your drivetrain will be good for another 2000 km. Here are three travel-specific setups based on the Shimano GRX RX820:

Mountain Travel Setup (Low Gearing Focus)

  • Chainrings    46/30T
  • Cassette    11–36T

Flatland Speed Setup (High Speed Focus)

  • Chainrings    50/34T
  • Cassette    11–34T

Balanced Travel Setup (Mixed Terrain Focus)

  • Chainrings    48/31T
  • Cassette    11–36T

Comparison development(*) and speed (**)

ComboLowest GearHighest Gear
Mountain1.75 m (5.74 ft) → 9.45 km/h (5.87 mph)8.78 m (28.82 ft) → 47.45 km/h (29.49 mph)
Flatland2.10 m (6.89 ft) → 11.34 km/h (7.04 mph)9.55 m (31.33 ft) → 51.57 km/h (32.04 mph)
Balanced1.81 m (5.94 ft) → 9.77 km/h (6.07 mph)9.16 m (30.06 ft) → 49.49 km/h (30.76 mph)


(*) Meters (feet) traveled per pedal revolution on 700×38c tires (Wheel circumference: 2.1 m (6.89 ft)
(**) Speed at 90 RPM

What about SRAM?

You may notice I haven’t mentioned SRAM groupsets here. That’s because, as of today, SRAM does not offer a mechanical 12-speed 2x gravel groupset. Their excellent AXS-based systems are electronic-only — and while SRAM Rival 22 is a mechanical option, it’s 11-speed and road-oriented. For a rugged, serviceable, modern gravel setup, Shimano GRX RX820 really stands alone.

Conclusion

The best drivetrain setup depends on your terrain, riding style, fitness, and total bike weight.  I’ve ridden the Flatland Speed Setup (50/34 + 11–34) in mixed terrain and mountains, even with heavy luggage. Gradients over 10% were nearly a near-death experience. I’m going with the mechanical 2x12 GRX RX820, 48/31 + 11–36. And if I ever need more top speed… I know how to get it.